R: "I can hear the Mridangam! Can you hear that Mridangam?"
I could hear no Mridangam. I am sure though that it must have been playing. I simply could not hear it because all my faculties were busy gaping. If Malgudi was a village of Tamilian Brahmins settled in Palakkad district of Kerala; it would look much like the place I was strolling in currently.
I must have looked quite the odd animal to the residents, camera dangling by my side, walking, gaping, staring quite stupidly. All this was happening because of some occurrences I could not wrap my head around. Occurrences that were very ordinary and everyday in these parts and centered around two things: Waking up at unearthly hours and practicing at being extremely talented!
Kalpathy Gramam (village) did not live up to the stories I had heard about it but it was indeed a surprise. Even before the break of dawn, the village awoke. Sleepily, the front yards were washed by the women of the household and a small motif was drawn on the doorstep with rangoli. The motif waited to be a part of a larger rangoli while the women bathed, made Narasu's filter-coffee and cleaned their homes while lovely bhajans mostly in the voice of M. S. Subbalaxmi created a very reverent atmosphere in the background.
In rapid succession, the members of each household bathed and prayed. The women stepped onto the yard and drew elaborate, beautiful, free-hand rangolis. Each home resounded with riyaaz. Different musical instruments playing as if in tandem. Voices belting out raga after raga. Nothing co-ordinated but the whole village resounding as if it were one orchestra.
R: "This is not the full glory of Kalpathy"
Me: "Mmmm...I finally found Narasu's filter-coffee!"
R: " Lets just go..."
Kalpathy might not be in its full glory now. The younger generation is either moving out or renovating the traditional homes with misplaced modern touches. But it still is a curious place. For starters, the village is a perfect formation of right-angles. Almost each square has a temple. And every second village-square startles you because when you turn the corner, BAM! Chariot in your face!
Like all places, the things that make Kalpathy are better experienced than read. Some, I have managed to capture on camera.
Have also read about Kalpathy in the same book - :D - its a novel called 'Nine Lives' - get it if you can ---
ReplyDeleteGood co-incidence that i read this novel and checking your blog - all the stories are memorized in correct visuals now - due to your pictures - :)
"Each home resounded with riyaaz". - ;) - could relate with this ;) - - - dieing to visit such places - - hopefully i will some day - although thanks for sharing your experiences - helpful and interesting - cheers !